The Grey Panthers
3 June 2009, - Gaunless Valley Circular


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about 9 miles.
Explorer Maps No 305 and OL31, - Bishop Auckland / North Pennines

The walk proved to be a total delight, - the more so as the pleasure was somewhat unexpected in an area which has previously been heavily industrialised with coal mining, lead mining, quarrying, and railways. Nowadays there are glimpses of the industrial past, but otherwise the walk takes in meadowland, woodland, and heathland.
Although we made the walk in early June, it would almost certainly be as enjoyable at almost any time of the year.

For the most part navigation is straightforward. However, we did manage to get "lost" in a couple of places where the waymarks weren't quite up to scratch. In particular, we somehow managed to end up in the village of Woodland rather than Lynesack, which added a good mile or two onto the distance. If you study the map closely, though, you shouldn't have this problem.


Memory Map
For a Memory Map overlay of the walk described, please select the above link.
(Overlay made with Version 4 of Memory Map)


The walk description below is adapted from one which appeared in the Darlington & Stockton Times some while ago. However, some differences have been made to the original (8 mile long) described walk.

Start from the excellent visitor centre at The Slack, near Butter-knowle, (GR 113253, open daily from 11am to 3pm from Easter to the end of September and at weekends in the winter). However, there is VERY limited parking in the vicinity and you will need to respect the privacy of local residents.

With your back to the centre, go left along the road and almost immediately left along a lane which runs next to the River Gaunless. In 200yds, go straight over at a road junction, signed to Toft Hill (B6282).
Where the road turns sharp left in about 150yds, go ahead on a foot¬path to cross the river by a concrete bridge. Continue for the next mile or so on the trackbed of the former Haggerleases line, a branch of the Stockton & Darlington Railway, built in 1830 for transporting coal from the local mines.
In 300yds, re-cross the Gaunless by the Skew Bridge of James Wilson of Pontefract, Builder, 1830, as the plaque proudly proclaims. It is an early example of a bridge built askew without a keystone to accommodate the acute bend of the river. The line now straightens out along the riverside, flanked by the fell on the right.
The huge abutment towers of the Lands Viaduct soon come into sight, built by Thomas Bouch in 1862 to carry the line from Bishop Auckland to Barnard Castle and sadly destroyed when the line closed in the 1960s. In another 200yds, we leave the track by going right over the Gaunless and on to Cockfield Fell.
Bear left after the bridge on a path which climbs parallel to the remains of a tramway which once took coal from a nearby colliery to the Haggerleases line. Beyond Fell Houses, follow the access track which almost immediately crosses a deep trench where hard volcanic whinstone, part of the Cleveland Dyke, was quarried for road-making.
Shortly afterwards, turn right off the track across the rough pasture of the open fell, heading for the wall which encircles Cockfield cemetery.
Where the footpath meets the edge of Cockfield village, head South to the High Street then walk West along the High Street.
Continue to Hollymoor Farm. A hundred yards beyond the farm cross a road to Burnt Houses and, leaving the fell, take a path across three fields to Scotland Lane. Turn right, following the lane along the edge of the Raby estate and then across Shotton Moor. The trackbed of the line to Barnard Castle is crossed in about half a mile.
Just beyond Gibbsneese Farm, the right of way bears right and heads for the prominent chimney of the Gaunless or Copley lead smelting mill.
Re-cross the Gaunless by the site of the mill and turn left on the bridleway behind what was the house of the mill manager. Continue along the track though woodland, until on your right you come to the track leading to Steele House. Continue past the house to more woodland and descend to cross the River Gaunless. On the other side of the river is a clear footpath that is waymarked as the Gaunless Valley Circular>
Follow the footpath, but then turn right along the footpath to Lane Head.
Turn right in the village street and almost immediately left on a path to the hamlet of Howie. Here the right of way bears to the left of West Gate Close to a junction of paths in front of the other two farms.
Go to the right of the right-hand farm, Thompson's Howie, cross Howie Beck and follow it downstream into Lynesack, where you go left along the village street.
A literary diversion could be made here, first left, to visit the grave of Edward Smith, the inspiration for Smike in Dickens' Nicholas Nickleby. It is to be found by the hedge, a few yards west of the church.
Return afterwards to the village street.
Continue for another 100yds to The Hill, a house on the left, where a path leads across fields to Raines House. Go straight ahead here on a farm track to the 18th century farms of Potter's Cross.
Take the access lane, right, leading from the hamlet and, in about 150yds, look out for a stile in the wall on the left.
From here, a path leads over three fields to a large bungalow. Now turn left along the road leading to the hamlet of South Side.
Just beyond the terrace of houses called Moorside, go right on a bridleway which descends to the confluence of three becks. Cross three footbridges in order to arrive on the left bank of Crow Howie Beck. Here, until a century ago, was the thriving Butterknowle Colliery. All that remains is the spoil heap and a range of coke ovens in the undergrowth on the left.
In less than half a mile, the path reaches The Slack, where you turn left down the road to the Gaunless and the visitor centre.

 




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